Transmission mount 8W0399156BH delivers strong, reliable support to prevent transmission misalignment, reduces vibration for a quieter and smoother ride, is built with high-quality rubber and steel for long-lasting durability, fits multiple vehicle models without modification, and serves as a direct OEM replacement to restore factory performance.
Fit to
AUDI A6L
AUDI A4L
AUDI A6
AUDI A7
AUDI A4
AUDI A5
AUDI Q5
· Transmission Mount 8W0399156BH optimized for high-performance vehicles, built to handle extreme stress in intense driving.
· Effectively prevents gearbox damage from excessive movement.
· Wear-resistant and high-temperature tolerant, perfect for harsh conditions.
· Delivers a quieter, smoother driving experience.
· Reliable, long-lasting solution for performance car owners.
Tools Needed
Replacing the Transmission Mount 8W0399156BH isn't that complicated. A few wrenches, screwdrivers, and a jack are all you need—I managed it myself in the garage without even using a lift (shared by a car owner).
Step-by-Step Guide (Tested, Done in 20 Minutes)
Lift the Car Find a solid spot and slowly lift the car with a jack—take your time, safety first. I usually place a wooden block under the tires for extra stability.
Remove the Old Mount Take off the old mount and keep all the screws and nuts safe—don't throw them away. I lost one once and had to visit three auto parts stores to find a replacement, which was frustrating.
Inspect the Transmission Check the mounting area for any cracks or wear. Don't underestimate this step; a friend of mine skipped it and had to deal with wobbling again in just two months.
Install the New Mount Align the Transmission Mount 8W0399156BH with the holes and screw it in—don't tighten them all the way at first, just secure them loosely.
Torque to Specification Follow the manual for the correct Nm torque—I'm using a cheap torque wrench from an online store, cost me $59, and it works fine. Too loose and it'll wobble, too tight and you risk stripping the threads.
Test and Check Lower the car, start it, shift to Drive, and gently press the accelerator while holding the brake—check if the engine shakes excessively. No strange noises or vibrations? You're done!
Clean the Area Before Installation—I once dropped a screw in there and spent half an hour looking for it.
Always Check the Manual for Torque Specs, don't rely on guesswork!
Regular Maintenance (Don't Wait Until It Breaks)
Periodic Checks
Every few months, take a quick look at the mount for any cracks or looseness. I usually do this when changing the oil, takes just 2 minutes.
Reddit Car Enthusiasts' Tested Tip
Get a reliable friend to sit in the driver's seat: Shift to Drive → Hold the brake → Gently press the accelerator → You watch under the hood. If the engine shakes like it's dancing, it's time to replace the mount!
Don't Skip Transmission Fluid Changes
Change it according to the mileage—dirty fluid wears out the mount faster. A friend of mine waited until 100,000 km to change it, and ended up with both the mount and the oil pump failing, costing nearly $5,000.
Common Question: Do I need to change the filter every time I change the fluid? Absolutely! A clogged filter increases oil pressure, and the mount won't last long under that stress.
Drive Gently
Avoid flooring the accelerator, sudden braking, or towing—drive smoothly, and the mount will last longer.
Car Owner's Frustration
"Went to the dealership to fix the mount, thinking it was under warranty—turns out they said 'the way you drive, it's not covered.' My wallet hurts."
One-Sentence Summary: Regular Checks + Timely Fluid Changes + Smooth Driving = Fewer Mount Replacements, Save Thousands!
Maintenance guide
Check the mount every few months for cracks, play, or anything loose—those are the tell-tale signs it’s on the way out.
Quick field test (straight from every tech I know): get someone you trust behind the wheel, shift into Drive, foot hard on the brake, then ease onto the throttle so the engine loads up against it. Pop the hood and watch—if the powertrain rocks more than a gentle nod, the mount’s shot.
Stay on top of fluid changes. Follow the factory interval to the letter; old, burnt fluid eats rubber and accelerates wear.
Question I get all the time: “Do I really need a new filter every fluid swap?” Yes—every single time. A clogged filter spikes line pressure and hammers the mount indirectly.
Drive it like you want it to last. No jack-rabbit starts, panic stops, or constant trailer duty. Smooth inputs are the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy.
Heard at the counter last week: “Took it to the dealer thinking warranty would cover the mount—turned out my lead-foot voided it.”
Bottom line from 20 years under the hood: Inspect + fresh fluid + easy right foot = way fewer mounts, thousands saved.
Signs Your Transmission Mount is Going Bad – And How to Fix It Hey folks, if your ride's starting to feel like it's got a mind of its own, especially around the drivetrain, a worn-out transmission mount could be the culprit. These things hold everything steady under the hood, but they don't last forever – rubber breaks down from heat, oil, and miles.
1.Vibrations That Shake the Whole Car The Symptom: One of the first things you'll notice is the whole damn thing vibrating like crazy, especially at idle. Owners on r/MechanicAdvice and r/CherokeeXJ keep saying stuff like, "I got drivetrain vibration when idling in gear when my trans mount was sacked out," or "Does it vibrate terribly at idle?" It's that annoying shake in the steering wheel, floor, or dash that makes you think something's about to fall apart. Happens because the mount's rubber is shot and can't isolate the engine/trans from the frame anymore – everything just transfers right through. The Fix: Pop under the car and check for cracks, tears, or that squishy, old-rubber look. If it's toast, swap it out for something solid. Go with a high-quality replacement like the Transmission Mount 8W0399156BH – it's OEM-spec for Audis , fits like a glove, and folks on parts sites rave about how it kills the vibes without being too harsh. Or grab a polyurethane upgrade if you're chasing durability; Reddit threads (like in r/BmwTech) swear by them for cutting flex and lasting way longer than stock rubber, though they might amp up NVH a tad at first. Torque the bolts to spec when you install – loose ones just bring the vibes back. Pro tip: Do the engine mounts too while you're in there; bad ones team up to make it worse.
2.Noises and That Rough Ride Feel The Symptom: Then the racket kicks in – clunks, thuds, or bangs that get louder when you shift or hit bumps. It's like "Are those mounts causing more racket that you can hear such as vibrations?" straight from the forums. r/AskMechanics is full of stories about a "single clunk sound after putting in gear and initial acceleration," or hard shifts from R to D that feel like you're slamming into something. The bad mount lets metal smack metal or the trans flop around, turning your cabin into a drum kit. Roughness ramps up too – that NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) makes every drive feel bumpy and cheap. The Fix: Don't wait – replace the worn mount ASAP to get back that smooth isolation. Stick with the 8W0399156BH if it's a direct fit; reviews call it a "game-changer" for quieting down without leaks or misalignment. Installation's straightforward: Jack it up safe, drop the old one, bolt in the new, and crank those fasteners to factory torque (check your manual). To dial down any leftover harshness, slap some sound-deadening mats around the trans area – cheap fix that Reddit DIYers love for killing echoes. If it's poly, give it a break-in drive; vibes settle after 100 miles or so.
3.Drivetrain Slack Messing Up Your Shifts The Symptom: This one's sneaky – too much play in the drivetrain, where everything feels sloppy. Like one guy on r/cars nailed it: "The amount of flex that my stock transmission mount was giving was causing clearance issues." Shifts get notchy or hard (especially 1-2 or R), parts rub (exhaust on driveshaft?), and you might even grind or feel like the trans is wandering. High-mileage cars on r/GolfGTI complain of "rough gear shifts" and bogging off the line 'cause the slack eats your power. The Fix: Stiffen it up with a harder mount to kill the flex – solid rubber or high-durometer poly works wonders. The 8W0399156BH is a solid OEM-style pick here; it's got that bracket and rubber setup that locks things down without drama, and users say it fixes alignment issues fast. Check your motor mounts and exhaust hangers while you're at it – worn ones compound the slack. Reinstall with everything lined up perfect (use a pry bar to test play before torquing). For performance builds, poly's the move per r/350z reviews – reduces slop big time, but mix it with rubber if you hate extra vibes. Quick Tips to Stay Ahead
Diagnosis Hack: Put it in gear, brake hard, and watch the trans from underneath (or have a buddy spot it). If it rocks more than an inch, mount's bad. No fancy tools needed – just like the YouTube guides say. Prevention: Peek at it during oil changes, especially if you've got high miles or push the car hard. Heat and age are killers. When to Call a Pro: If swapping doesn't fix it, hit up a mechanic – could be flex discs, u-joints, or driveline misalignment sneaking in.
Fix a bad transmission mount quick, and you'll get that smooth ride back, ditch the noise, and dodge pricey downstream damage like bent shafts. Oh, and if you're shopping, the VDI Transmission Mount 8W0399156BH is worth a look – solid reviews for reliability and easy install. Drive safe out there.
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