The Engine Mount 7L8199131A is reinforced for performance vehicles and heavy-duty applications, built for tough conditions with high horsepower or rough driving, and offers long-lasting life due to its premium materials for increased durability and wear resistance.
Replacement NO.
7L6 199 131 A
955 375 049 00
Fit to
AUDI Q7
VW TOUAREG
PORSCHE CAYENNE
●Provides superior comfort by reducing vibration transfer to the cabin.
●Engine mount 7L8199131A uses high-quality materials to enhance the mount's resistance to wear and environmental factors.
●Ideal for drivers looking for a smoother ride without the need for complex modifications.
●Ensures the engine stays stable during acceleration and deceleration, improving vehicle control.
Keeping your engine mounts in shape keeps the whole car from shaking apart and wrecking other parts. Here’s the straight-up maintenance plan that actually works—no fluff.
1.Prep
Park it dead-level, yank the handbrake, kill the key. Gloves and safety glasses on—don’t skip this.
Round up: floor jack, jack stands, full wrench set, pry bar, torque wrench, and yeah, grab the ratchet and sockets too.
Jack the side you’re working on, slide jack stands in solid. Jack alone = death trap. Don’t do it.
2.Hunt the mounts
They’re the fat rubber (sometimes rubber+metal) hunks sandwiched between the engine and the frame. Usually 2–4 of them. Job’s simple: soak up vibes, keep the mill from flopping.
Clear the junk in your way—airbox, intake tube, heat shields, whatever. If you can’t swing a wrench, pull it.
3.Yank the old one
Slide a jack (wood block on the oil pan) or an engine support bar up top to take the engine’s weight. No support = engine on your chest.
Crack every bolt loose—engine side, frame side. Save ’em if they’re not chewed up.
Bolts out, pry bar in, wiggle the old mount free. Mind the wires and hoses—don’t snap anything.
4.Drop the new one in
Slot the new Engine mount 7L8199131A exactly where the old one sat. Line the holes up dead-nuts with the bracket and frame (some only fit one way).
Thread bolts by hand, snug ’em, then torque to spec—check your manual. Too loose or too tight and you’re buying another mount.
Eyeball the engine position before final torque. Crooked engine = stressed mount = early death.
5.Button everything back up
Anything you pulled to get in there—intake, airbox, exhaust bits—bolt it back tight.
Run your eyes over every wire and hose you bumped. Nothing kinked, nothing stretched.
6.Drop it down
Lower slow, yank the stands, bounce the car a couple times to let it settle.
Fire it up. Feel and listen. Weird shakes or clunks? Shut it down, dig back in. Smooth and quiet? You’re done.
7.Last once-over
Look for fresh oil or coolant around the mount.
Take it around the block. If the engine stays planted and the ride’s smooth, call it a win.
When it’s time to buy, spend the cash on OEM or a solid brand (like VDI). Dirt-cheap stuff collapses fast and costs you way more in the long run.
Torque specs aren’t optional—hit the book for your car. Wrong torque wrecks mounts and everything around them.
Not sure or hate crawling under cars? Pay a shop. Cheaper than snapping an exhaust manifold.
That’s the full swap, straight talk, no fluff.
VDI Engine mount 7L8199131A is worthy of your trust.
1.Regular Inspections (don’t just ignore them) Every oil change or two, pop the hood and eyeball the mounts. Look for cracks, rips, rubber that’s split or gone hard and glossy. Any oil or coolant dripping on them? That’s eating the rubber alive—fix the leak yesterday. With the engine idling in Park (foot on brake), have a buddy ease into throttle while you watch. Engine rocking more than an inch or so? Mounts are done. Same when you shut it off—if it clunks hard settling back, start shopping.
2.Feel What’s Happening on the Road Shifts clunking like a hammer? Steering wheel buzzing at stoplights in Drive? That’s the engine flopping around on tired mounts. Extra bangs or thuds when you punch it or let off? Engine’s smacking stuff it shouldn’t because nothing’s holding it steady.
3.Shield Them from the Elements Heat, oil, coolant, tranny fluid—any of that soaking the rubber speeds up failure. Fix leaks fast. Winter salt roads? Hose the bay gently (engine cold) every now and then so corrosion doesn’t chew the metal inside the mounts.
4.Preventative Moves That Count Check your manual—some old-school mounts want a dab of grease or silicone spray on schedule. Most new ones need zero lube, just keep ’em clean. If you hammer the car—track, towing, big power, rough roads—swap to stiffer poly or solid mounts early. They take the abuse and last.
5.Dead-Giveaway Signs It’s Replacement Time
● Rev in neutral or power-brake; engine lifts or slams way too much.
● Hood up, engine looks tilted or uneven.
● Clunk when you drop into gear or take off.
● New vibes through the seat and wheel that weren’t there last month. Any of those = quit procrastinating. Bad mounts crack headers, rip axles, and beat transmissions to death.
1.Let a Pro Peek You’ll catch the big stuff, but a lift and trained eyes spot tears you miss from the top. Every service, ask the tech to glance at the mounts—takes 30 seconds.
2.Buy Decent Parts When it’s time, drop coin on OEM or a real brand (like VDI Engine mount 7L8199131A). Dirt-cheap no-names collapse fast and cost you way more in the long run.
3.Drive Like the Mounts Matter Ease off the jack-rabbit starts, clutch-dumping, and pothole-bombing. Smooth = longer life. Don’t pack the trunk like a U-Haul every weekend—extra weight murders mounts.
Stick to this and most mounts hit 150-200k easy. Blow it off and you’re under the car swearing way sooner. Your call.
Diagnosing Bad Engine Mounts: Real-World Problems and Fixes That Actually Work Worn-out engine mounts turn your car into a paint-shaker and can wreck other parts if you let it slide. Spotting them early isn’t rocket science—here’s the no-BS rundown on symptoms and dead-simple checks that pros swear by.
The Problem: What Failing Mounts Feel (and Sound) Like Mounts bolt the engine to the frame and swallow vibes. When they crap out—rubber rots, hydraulic ones leak, or metal fat “sandwiches” separate—you get: · Engine lurching hard on throttle or gear changes, like a solid thump in the seat. · Hydraulic fluid pissing out the driver-side mount (left in LHD cars). · Clunks, bangs, or dull thuds under load—acceleration, braking, shifting. If the engine jumps during the test below, or you see red/brown fluid dripping from the left mount, start ordering parts. Weird noises that come and go with RPM are another dead giveaway.
1.Testing Engine Movement (the “power-brake” check) Hands-on, takes two minutes: · Fire the engine. · Foot hard on brake, shift into Drive (or Reverse on RWD). · Give it half to ¾ throttle while holding the brake. · Engine rocks more than an inch or slams with a noticeable bump? Mounts are shot. That jerk means nothing’s holding torque anymore.
2.Visual Inspection (pop the hood and look) Grab a flashlight: · Hydraulic mounts love leaking from the driver side—look for wet streaks, puddles, or fluid-soaked rubber. · Solid-rubber mounts: hunt for deep cracks, tears, chunks missing, or rubber that’s collapsed flat. · Check both sides, top and bottom if you can see under.
3.Listening for Noises (your ears don’t lie) Drive it, feel it, listen close: · Clunk when you nail the gas? Thud when you let off? Bang shifting gears? · Sounds that get louder with RPM or only happen under load scream bad mounts. · Roll windows down, idle in gear—any new rattle that wasn’t there last week is suspect.
Solution: Swap the Mounts Diagnosis confirmed? Fix is simple: · Replace every bad mount—do both (or all) at once; one good and one toast just shifts stress. · Buy OEM or a legit brand (like VDI Engine mount 7L8199131A). Dirt-cheap junk collapses fast and costs you way more in the long run. · Not comfy wrenching? Pay a shop. Crooked install = cracked exhaust manifolds and pissed-off transmission.
Run the power-brake test, flashlight check, and listen on a quick drive—three minutes total and you’ll know exactly what’s wrong. New mounts = quiet, planted engine again.
We know very well how important the engine mount is. Every Engine mount 7L8199131A we ship undergoes real-world quality checks and rigorous testing. They not only meet OEM specifications but exceed them, ensuring you get rock-solid, long-term reliability and performance.
